Home Equity

Learn how home equity works and explore options like HELOCs, home equity loans, and cash-out refinancing to achieve your goals.

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The In-Law Suite Most People Price Wrong

The In-Law Suite Most People Price Wrong 1200 630 Creative Studio

Key takeaways

  • Converting space you already own is usually cheaper than building a separate unit in the backyard, and most homeowners price the backyard version first.
  • Atlanta currently allows only detached accessory units, which means basement apartments and garage conversions aren’t permitted in the city today.
  • The Atlanta Department of City Planning has proposed allowing attached conversions, but that change hasn’t been adopted and is still moving through review.
  • Accessory dwelling rules are written city by city and sometimes tightened further by an HOA, so the only answer that counts is the one from your own jurisdiction.
  • A cash-out refinance and a home equity line are the two routes I can help with directly, and which one fits depends on your situation and what you qualify for.

A client called me last month because her mother is moving down from Ohio. She’d been going back and forth about it for the better part of a year, and she’d landed where a lot of families land. She wanted her mom close by, but she didn’t want her mom living in the guest room off the hallway. Both of them wanted a door that closes and a kitchen that belongs to somebody. So, she’d gotten a quote on a small cottage for the backyard, and the number came back high enough that she called me half convinced the whole idea was finished.

I asked her one question before we talked about money at all, which was what she had above her garage. There was a full floor up there, unfinished, holding a Christmas tree and a treadmill nobody had touched in three years. She’d priced the most expensive version of what she wanted without ever looking at the cheaper one sitting over her own cars, and in my experience that’s how it usually goes.

The expensive version is the one people price first

The phrase the industry uses for a second living space on your property is accessory dwelling unit, which is a clumsy name for a simple thing: somewhere smaller to live, on the same lot as the main house. An in-law suite is one. So is a garage apartment, a finished basement with its own entrance, and the little cottage at the back of the lot that people’s grandparents called a granny flat.

When somebody pictures an accessory unit, they almost always picture the cottage. It’s the version that shows up in magazines and the version builders put on their websites, and it’s also the version that requires a foundation, a roof, new plumbing runs and a new electrical service. Every one of those is a line item that a conversion of existing space either skips entirely or handles far more cheaply.

Cities that have allowed accessory units for years show which version homeowners actually choose. The Atlanta Department of City Planning, comparing our rules to other cities, points out that in Los Angeles nearly four out of every five accessory units are conversions or expansions of space that already existed. Only one in five are detached buildings. Given a real choice between the two, most homeowners don’t build in the yard.

I’m not telling you the cottage is a bad idea. If your basement is four feet tall and your garage is falling down, the yard may be your only option. I’m telling you that most people never price the comparison, and the comparison is where the money is.

What people actually want the space for

People’s reasons for wanting an in-law suite are more mixed than the internet suggests. The pitch online is almost always rental income, and income is part of it for a lot of families. It’s rarely the whole story, and in my office it’s usually not the part that started the conversation. What starts it is a parent, or a kid who moved home, or a sister between houses.

When Freddie Mac asked homeowners in 2022 why they’d want one, the most common answer wasn’t income at all. It was having somewhere to put out-of-town visitors. Renting came next, and moving family in came after that. People could pick more than one reason, so the shares add up to well past 100, and plenty of them had a family reason and an income reason at the same time.

Bar chart of the top reasons people would consider an accessory dwelling unit, from a Freddie Mac consumer survey: hosting out-of-town visitors 37 percent, renting to tenants 33 percent, renting to vacationers 21 percent, moving family in permanently with rent 19 percent, moving family in temporarily without rent 18 percent

Two other surveys point the same way. AARP’s 2024 survey of adults found that one in four older homeowners say they would consider building an accessory unit to provide space for a loved one who needs care or a place to live. The Census Bureau counted 6.0 million American households in 2020 with three or more generations under one roof, up from 5.1 million a decade earlier, and that was 7.2 percent of all family households. Families are spreading across fewer addresses than they used to, and the house is where that gets absorbed.

What Atlanta allows right now

Atlanta’s rules need spelling out precisely, because the answer changes at almost every city limit. What follows is true inside the Atlanta city limits and nowhere else. If you’re in Marietta or Decatur or unincorporated Gwinnett, read it as an illustration of how much these rules vary rather than as your answer.

In Atlanta today, you can build a detached accessory unit without asking the city for special permission, as long as your property sits in one of the residential zones the code lists (R4, R4A and R5) plus a handful of special districts. That’s the city’s own description of its current code. The unit has to be its own building, separate from the house, and it can’t be split off and sold as its own lot.

Notice what’s missing from Atlanta’s current rules. Atlanta doesn’t currently allow the accessory unit to be attached to the main house. A basement apartment with its own entrance and an apartment carved out of an attached garage, the two cheapest versions of this, aren’t on the table inside the city right now. The city’s planning department says so plainly, and names it as the thing that makes Atlanta an outlier: limiting homeowners to detached units limits them to the more expensive option. So, if you live in the city and somebody has told you to just finish the basement and put a door on it, that advice is out of date, or it came from somewhere else.

What the city has proposed, and what that means for timing

The Department of City Planning has put forward a set of changes, and they go directly at that gap. The proposal would allow accessory units attached to the main dwelling, specifically naming a basement apartment or a garage conversion, capped at half the size of the main house or 1,000 square feet. It would raise the size limit on detached units from 750 to 1,000 square feet, raise the height limit from 20 to 24 feet so a unit over a garage becomes possible, extend the allowance to the R4B district, and stop counting garage space against the unit’s square footage.

None of those proposed changes is law yet. The proposal sits inside the city’s larger zoning rewrite and is still working through the review process, which means neighborhood review, a zoning board hearing and a City Council vote before anything changes. I’m not going to guess at the timing, and you should be suspicious of anyone who does.

The practical consequence for an Atlanta homeowner is that the calendar matters. If the conversion you want is attached, the answer today is no, and it may not be no forever.

What actually stops these projects

Every one of these projects runs into the same wall, and the wall is permission rather than money. Permission is what people check last, and it’s what they should be checking first.

Accessory dwelling rules are written city by city and county by county. Two houses four miles apart can sit under completely different rules, and an HOA can tighten things further on top of whatever the city allows, including banning a separate kitchen or a separate entrance outright. I can’t tell you what your jurisdiction permits, and neither can a contractor who works across three counties, and neither can a website. You have to ask your own planning department and read your own covenants.

The other thing that stops these projects is whether the space can actually work. A separate entrance, ceiling height that meets code, a way to run water and waste to a new kitchen and bathroom, and enough of a footprint that somebody can live there without walking through your living room. Plenty of basements fail on ceiling height alone. Better to learn that in week one than in month four.

Paying for it

Paying for the work is the part clients ask me about, so let me be straight about what I can and can’t help with. I went through all five ways people pay for a project like this a couple of weeks back, and I won’t put you through it twice. That whole comparison is still up on the blog if you want the long version.

The two routes I work with are a cash-out refinance, where you replace your current mortgage with a larger one and take the difference in cash, and a home equity line of credit, which is a second loan against the house that you draw on as you need it rather than taking all at once. Which of those makes sense depends on your current mortgage, how much equity you have, and what the work is likely to cost. What you’d qualify for varies by program, by property and by borrower.

Rolling other debts into the mortgage is the one I want to warn you about. If you’re thinking about folding existing balances in while you borrow for the conversion, know that debts your house isn’t currently backing become debts it is backing, and stretching them over a mortgage’s length can mean paying more interest overall even when your monthly payment drops. That’s a real trade, and I’d want to walk through it with you before you decide.

Before you call anyone, work through this

Most of the wasted money on these projects gets spent in the first month, on plans for something that was never going to be allowed. Run this list first.

  • ☐  Find your zoning district on your city or county’s online zoning map
  • ☐  Call your local planning department and ask specifically whether an attached accessory unit is permitted in your district
  • ☐  If you’re in an HOA, read the covenants for language on separate kitchens, separate entrances and rental of any part of the property
  • ☐  Measure the finished ceiling height of the space you have in mind and check it against your local code minimum
  • ☐  Identify where water and waste would connect for a new kitchen and bathroom, and get a plumber’s opinion before an architect’s
  • ☐  Confirm whether the space would need its own entrance and whether you have somewhere to put one
  • ☐  Get two quotes on the conversion and one on the detached version, so you’re comparing rather than guessing
  • ☐  Work out how much equity you have before you decide how the work gets paid for

Take the list to your planning department before you take it to a builder. The answers are free, they take one phone call, and they determine everything that comes after.

If you want to talk through the financing side once you know what your city allows, give me a call. I’d rather help you work out what’s realistic now than fix a plan that was built on the wrong rules.

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Loan-to-Value Ratio for Investment Properties

Loan-to-Value Ratio for Investment Properties 5264 3393 Your Loan Officer for Life

Key Takeaways

  • The LTV formula and how to calculate it for any property 
  • Maximum LTV by loan program and property type 
  • What combined loan-to-value (CLTV) means once a second loan is involved 
  • How LTV and DSCR work together for investment property qualification 
  • Practical ways to improve your LTV position before you apply 

 

What Is Loan-to-Value (LTV)? 

Loan-to-value measures how much you’re borrowing relative to what the property is worth: 

LTV = Loan Amount ÷ Property Value × 100 

If you’re purchasing a $500,000 property with a $400,000 loan, your LTV is 80% — meaning the lender is financing 80% of the deal, and you’re covering the remaining 20% through your down payment or existing equity. 

The lower your LTV, the more equity you’re bringing into the deal, and the less risk the lender is carrying. That relationship is why LTV drives so much of your loan’s pricing and structure. 

Why LTV Determines More Than Just Your Down Payment 

Interest rate: A lower LTV generally unlocks better pricing, since less equity means more risk priced into the rate. 

Mortgage insurance: On most conventional financing, an LTV above 80% typically triggers private mortgage insurance (PMI) — an added monthly cost that continues until your LTV drops back below that threshold, either through paying down principal or the property appreciating. 

Approval speed and flexibility: Lower-LTV deals are generally viewed as lower-risk, which can mean a smoother underwriting process and more room to negotiate terms. 

Available loan amount: Your LTV cap, combined with the property’s appraised value, sets the ceiling on how much you can actually borrow — which is often the real constraint on what property you can afford, more than your income alone. 

Maximum LTV by Property Type 

LTV limits aren’t uniform — they shift meaningfully based on what you’re financing and how the property will be used: 

Property Type Typical Maximum LTV 
Owner-occupied, Conventional Up to 97% 
Owner-occupied, FHA Up to 96.5% 
Owner-occupied, VA (eligible borrowers) Up to 100% 
Owner-occupied, USDA (eligible areas) Up to 100% 
Investment property, 1 unit Roughly 75–85% 
Investment property, 2–4 units Roughly 70–75% 
Cash-out refinance, investment property Roughly 70–75% 
Jumbo financing Roughly 80–85%, program-dependent 

These are general industry ranges, not guaranteed figures — actual maximum LTV depends on your credit profile, the specific loan program, and current underwriting guidelines. Confirm your exact number with a loan officer before you make an offer. 

Notice the pattern: investment properties consistently carry lower maximum LTVs than owner-occupied homes, meaning more of your own capital is required upfront. That’s a direct reflection of risk — a lender absorbs more exposure on a property you don’t live in. 

Combined Loan-to-Value (CLTV): When a Second Loan Enters the Picture 

If you’re carrying more than one loan against a property — most commonly a first mortgage plus a HELOC or home equity loan — lenders evaluate combined loan-to-value (CLTV) instead of LTV alone: 

CLTV = (Sum of All Loan Balances) ÷ Property Value × 100 

This matters directly if you’re planning to tap equity in an investment property to fund a down payment on another one, or to cover renovation costs. Your CLTV, not just your primary mortgage’s LTV, is what determines how much additional borrowing capacity you actually have. 

How LTV Shifts Across the Property Lifecycle 

LTV isn’t a static number — it moves every time your loan balance or your property’s value changes, and tracking that shift is where informed investors gain an edge: 

  • At purchase, LTV is set by your down payment relative to the purchase price or appraised value, whichever is lower. 
  • As you pay down principal, LTV drops steadily even if the property’s value stays flat — every payment shifts more of the deal into equity. 
  • As the property appreciates, LTV drops independent of your payment schedule, which is often the faster lever in a rising market. 
  • At refinance, the lender reappraises the property and recalculates LTV from scratch — which is the point where prior paydown and appreciation either unlock better pricing, eliminate mortgage insurance, or open up cash-out capacity. 

 

This is also where owner-occupied and investment property LTV genuinely diverge in practice. An owner-occupied home benefits from the full range of high-LTV programs (FHA, VA, USDA, high-LTV Conventional). Investment properties don’t have that same low-down-payment runway — which means the equity-building levers above (principal paydown, appreciation, strategic pricing at purchase) carry more weight for investors than they do for owner-occupants, since there’s less room to lean on program flexibility alone. 

How to Improve Your LTV Position 

  • Increase your down payment if your capital position allows it — the most direct lever available. 
  • Choose a property priced below appraised value, which immediately improves your LTV at closing without adding more cash. 
  • Pay down principal over time on an existing loan to lower LTV ahead of a future cash-out refinance. 
  • Let appreciation work in your favor — a property that’s gained value since purchase may already sit at a lower LTV than your original loan terms, which can unlock refinancing options like eliminating PMI or accessing better pricing. 
  • Track your position with a mortgage calculator before you start shopping, so you know your target purchase price range at your desired LTV. 

 

The Bottom Line 

LTV isn’t just an underwriting formula — it’s the number that determines your down payment, your rate, your mortgage insurance exposure, and ultimately how much of your own capital stays available for your next deal. Investment properties carry tighter LTV limits than owner-occupied homes by design, which makes getting this number right before you make an offer more important, not less. 

Milend has been structuring exactly this kind of financing since 1995. As a family-owned, Atlanta-based lender, we underwrite across FHA, VA, Conventional, Jumbo, and investment property purchase and refinance programs — which means your LTV target is matched to the program built for it, not a one-size-fits-all number. 

 

Questions I get asked?

What is a good LTV ratio for an investment property?

Most investment property financing caps out lower than owner-occupied lending — generally in the 75–85% range for a single unit and 70–75% for 2–4 unit properties. A lower LTV, meaning a larger down payment, typically unlocks better pricing and avoids or reduces mortgage insurance costs. 

How is LTV calculated?

LTV is calculated by dividing the loan amount by the property’s value (either the purchase price or appraised value, whichever is lower for a purchase transaction), then multiplying by 100 to get a percentage. A $400,000 loan on a $500,000 property is an 80% LTV. 

What’s the difference between LTV and CLTV?

LTV considers only a single loan against the property. Combined loan-to-value (CLTV) adds together all loan balances secured by the property — such as a first mortgage plus a HELOC — and divides that total by the property’s value. CLTV is the relevant number whenever more than one loan is secured against the same property. 

Does LTV affect my interest rate?

Yes. A lower LTV generally signals lower risk to a lender, which typically translates into more favorable interest rate pricing. A higher LTV usually means a higher rate and, on many conventional loans, added mortgage insurance costs. 

What LTV do I need to avoid PMI? 

On most conventional financing, keeping your LTV at or below 80% typically avoids private mortgage insurance. Above that threshold, PMI is usually required until your LTV is paid or appreciated back down below 80%. 

What’s the maximum LTV for a jumbo loan?

Jumbo financing typically allows LTV up to roughly 80–85%, though the exact maximum depends on the loan amount, property type, and lender guidelines, and can be tighter than conforming loan limits allow. 

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Investment Property Loans: Requirements, Down Payments, and How to Qualify

Investment Property Loans: Requirements, Down Payments, and How to Qualify 1949 1099 Your Loan Officer for Life

Key Takeaways

  • What actually qualifies as an investment property versus a second home 
  • Down payment, credit score, and DTI requirements by property type 
  • How lenders treat rental income when calculating what you qualify for 
  • Loan program options, including a lower-down-payment path most investors overlook 
  • How many financed properties you can realistically carry at once 

 

Financing an investment property follows the same basic mortgage process as buying a home you’ll live in — you apply, document your finances, and get underwritten. The differences show up in the details: larger down payments, closer scrutiny of your reserves, and rules around how much of your expected rental income actually counts toward qualifying. Understanding those differences before you start house hunting is what keeps your offer realistic and your closing on schedule. 

What Counts as an Investment Property? 

An investment property can be a single-family residence, a multi-unit property, or a condominium — most commonly used as a rental, though it can also serve as a second home for your family. The distinction that matters to underwriting isn’t the property type; it’s occupancy. If you won’t be living there, it’s evaluated as non-owner-occupied financing, which carries different terms than the mortgage on your primary residence. 

Down Payment and LTV Requirements 

Investment properties require more equity upfront than owner-occupied homes — this is the single biggest structural difference in the financing: 

  • Single-family investment property: typically 15% minimum down, though 20–25% is common depending on your credit profile and the lender 
  • 2–4 unit investment property: typically 25% minimum down 
  • No PMI safety net: unlike owner-occupied financing, private mortgage insurance generally isn’t available on investment properties, so the higher down payment isn’t optional — it’s the lender’s primary protection against risk 

 

For a deeper look at how your down payment translates into loan-to-value ratio and what that means for your rate and terms, see our guide on loan-to-value ratio for investment properties. 

Credit Score and DTI Requirements 

Lenders generally expect a stronger credit and income profile for investment property financing than for a primary residence: 

  • Credit score: while some conventional guidelines technically allow scores in the 620s, most lenders want to see 680 or higher before extending competitive pricing on a rental property loan 
  • Debt-to-income ratio (DTI): generally capped around 43–45%, calculated the same way as any mortgage — total monthly debt obligations divided by gross monthly income 

 

A stronger credit profile doesn’t just affect approval odds — it directly affects your rate, since investment property pricing already runs roughly 0.5–0.75 percentage points above owner-occupied rates industry-wide. 

Cash Reserve Requirements 

Reserves get more scrutiny on investment property financing than on a primary home purchase. Most lenders want to see six months of mortgage payments (principal, interest, taxes, and insurance) available in liquid or near-liquid assets after your down payment and closing costs are covered. If you already carry financing on other investment properties, expect reserve requirements to stack across your portfolio rather than reset with each new purchase. 

Using Rental Income to Qualify 

Expected rental income can help you qualify for an investment property loan, but lenders don’t count it dollar-for-dollar. Most guidelines only credit roughly 75% of projected rent toward your qualifying income, building in a cushion for vacancy and maintenance. A signed lease on the property, if one exists, strengthens your case further. This is a detail worth running by your loan officer early — it can materially change your qualifying numbers versus what you’d assume from gross rent alone. 

Loan Program Options 

Conventional financing is the most common route for 1–4 unit investment properties, offering predictable fixed-rate terms and no occupancy requirement. 

FHA and VA “house hacking” is a lower-down-payment path many investors overlook: if you purchase a 2–4 unit property and occupy one unit yourself, you can use owner-occupied financing — FHA at as little as 3.5% down, or VA at 0% down for eligible borrowers — while renting out the remaining units. This is genuinely one of the more accessible ways into a first investment property, though it does require living in the property, typically for at least a year. 

Jumbo financing applies once your loan amount exceeds conforming limits, which is common with higher-value investment properties or multi-unit purchases in competitive markets. See our Jumbo loan program for details. 

Tapping existing equity is another path worth considering if you already own a home: a HELOC or cash-out refinance on your current property can fund the down payment on your next one, consolidating your financing into a structure that fits your broader portfolio strategy. 

Note: some lenders in the market also offer DSCR loans, which qualify borrowers based on the property’s rental income rather than personal income or tax returns. This can be worth exploring for self-employed investors or those with complex income — ask your loan officer whether this fits your situation. 

How Many Investment Properties Can You Finance? 

Under standard conventional guidelines, investors are generally limited to 10 financed properties total, including your primary residence. Once you’re carrying more than four financed properties, expect stricter requirements across the board: higher down payments, tighter credit score minimums, and more extensive reserve documentation. This is worth planning for early if you’re building a multi-property portfolio rather than buying a single rental. 

The Bottom Line 

Investment property financing isn’t harder because lenders are being difficult — it’s structured around real risk differences between a home you live in and one you don’t. Knowing the actual down payment, reserve, and income requirements before you start shopping is what keeps your offer competitive and your closing timeline realistic. 

Milend has been guiding investors through exactly this kind of financing since 1995. As a family-owned, Atlanta-based lender, we handle investment property financing from pre-qualification through the end of escrow — and if you already own a rental and it’s time to revisit your terms, our investment property refinance team can walk you through that too. 

What I commonly get asked?

What is the minimum down payment for an investment property?

Conventional financing typically requires at least 15% down for a single-family investment property and 25% for a 2–4 unit property. Some lenders may require 20% or more depending on your credit profile, since PMI generally isn’t available on investment properties. 

Can I use rental income to qualify for an investment property loan?

Yes, but most lenders only count roughly 75% of the projected rent toward your qualifying income, to account for vacancy and maintenance costs. A signed lease can strengthen your application further. 

How much in cash reserves do I need for an investment property?

Most lenders require six months of mortgage payments (principal, interest, taxes, and insurance) in reserves after your down payment and closing costs, and that requirement can increase if you already hold financing on other investment properties. 

Can I buy an investment property with less than 20% down?

Yes, in certain cases. Some conventional programs allow as little as 15% down for a single-unit property with strong credit. Additionally, purchasing a 2–4 unit property and occupying one unit yourself opens the door to FHA financing at 3.5% down or VA financing at 0% down for eligible borrowers. 

How many investment properties can I finance at once?

Under standard conventional guidelines, investors can typically finance up to 10 properties total, including their primary residence. Requirements become stricter — higher down payments, higher credit score minimums, more reserves — once you exceed four financed properties. 

Is the interest rate higher for an investment property loan?

Yes, typically. Investment property rates generally run about 0.5 to 0.75 percentage points higher than rates for the same borrower on a primary residence, reflecting the additional risk lenders take on with non-owner-occupied financing. 

A living room mid-renovation with furniture under plastic dust sheets, taped moving boxes and an aluminium stepladder
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Got the project list? There’s more than one way to pay for it

Got the project list? There’s more than one way to pay for it 1200 630 Your Loan Officer for Life

Key takeaways

  • Most homeowners decide how to pay for a renovation twice. Once before the first contractor arrives, and again mid-project when the budget runs over.
  • Think hard before a project takes your emergency fund with it. That’s one of the better reasons to borrow against the house instead.
  • The five ways of paying aren’t equal. You’ll pay far less interest on money borrowed against your home than on a credit card or a personal loan.
  • Refinancing isn’t the only way to reach your equity anymore, and for a lot of people it isn’t the obvious one.
  • A line of credit is a limit, not a lump sum. Size it for the project that runs over.

I was talking with someone recently who had spent three years saving for her kitchen. She had the number written down and she was proud of it, as she should have been. Then the work started, the old floor came up, and the number stopped being the number. That happens on most projects, and it’s the part almost nobody plans for.

Last week we went through which fall projects pay you back and which ones people regret. A lot of you wrote back with the same question, and it had nothing to do with garage doors. You wanted to know how to pay for it, so let’s talk that through. It’s the decision I watch people rush more than any other.

Bar chart of how homeowners paid for renovations in 2025: 84 percent used savings and 34 percent used credit cards, with a note that people could use more than one source. A separate callout says 23 percent of those spending over 50,000 dollars borrowed against home equity

The decision you make twice

Most people decide how they’ll pay for a renovation before getting a single estimate on the table. There’s a number in mind, and a plan for where it comes from. Then the tile is out of stock, or a wall comes down and something behind it needs attention, or the kitchen turns out so well that the hallway suddenly looks tired.

37% of homeowners spend past the budget they set, and most of them do it on purpose, choosing better materials or widening the scope once they can see the work taking shape. Those are usually good calls made for good reasons, but they do mean the money question gets asked twice.

The first decision happens at the kitchen table, with time to think it over. The second happens in week three, with a contractor standing in a half-finished room waiting on an answer. That second decision almost always costs more, not because the project changed, but because there was no time to think it through. That’s why I’d rather you had all of this before anyone quotes you, instead of after.

What people actually use

Most renovations get paid for out of savings, and there’s nothing wrong with that. It’s where I’d start too. What’s changed is how people cover the rest.

Credit cards now pay for part of the work on more than a third of projects, and that share climbs every year. Hardly anyone plans it that way. It happens partway through, when the money runs short and someone needs an answer the same day, and a credit card is the quickest thing in the wallet.

Most renovations get funded from more than one place, which is why the numbers in that chart add up past a hundred. Savings covers the bulk of it and something else covers the rest, and that something else is the part I’d want you choosing on purpose rather than by default.

The five ways people pay for it

These five ways of paying aren’t equal, and I’d rather say so plainly than pretend otherwise. Your own savings cost you no interest at all. Borrowing against your home costs some. A credit card or a personal loan costs the most, by a wide margin.

Savings. No lender, no paperwork, no lien on the house, and no interest to pay. Hard to beat when the money is sitting there.

The one thing I’d think about first is your emergency fund. That money already has a job. It covers a job loss, a failed water heater, a transmission. Spending it on a kitchen doesn’t make the next emergency any less likely, it just means you’ll be meeting that emergency with an empty account.

So if paying cash would clean you out, that’s a good reason to borrow against the house instead. You keep the cushion and the project still gets done.

A high-interest credit card. Fast, flexible, backed by nothing, and the most expensive way to pay for any of this. The speed is the whole appeal, and it’s also the trap.

The interest on a credit card buys you nothing. It doesn’t go into the house, it doesn’t come back at resale, and it isn’t building anything for your family. It leaves the account every month, and at credit card rates it leaves fast, which is why a credit card that started as a stopgap so often turns into the main thing you’re paying off.

There’s one narrow case where it works: something small you’ll clear in a couple of months, or a promotional rate you’ll pay off before it expires. Outside of that, a credit card becomes a bridge people end up living on, and I’ve had that conversation more times than I’d like.

A personal loan or contractor financing. Unsecured, so your house isn’t attached to it, and it’s usually quick. Nothing is backing it up though, so the interest runs much higher than a loan against your home, and you feel that difference every month for years.

Contractor-arranged financing is the one I’d read slowly, because the paperwork comes from the same people who want you to say yes to the bid. Ask who the lender actually is, and ask for the total cost over the full life of it in writing.

A home equity line or loan. On a bigger project, this is usually what we end up talking about. It’s a second loan that sits behind your existing mortgage and leaves that mortgage exactly as it is.

A line is at its best when the work happens in stages. You get a limit, you draw what you need as the job moves, and you only pay interest on what you’ve actually drawn. A loan is at its best when you already know the number: one defined job, one lump sum, one schedule.

What makes a home equity line or loan cheaper is straightforward. Your home is backing it, so the interest rate runs far below a credit card or a personal loan. On a renovation that takes a year or two to pay off, that difference adds up to real money.

A cash-out refinance. Sometimes the cheapest option depending on your scenario. You replace your existing mortgage with a larger one and take the difference, so everything stays on a single payment and a single schedule. It’s also the route that generally allows the largest loan-to-value.

The part that surprises people

For years there was one answer to “how do I get at the equity in my house,” and that answer was refinance. It’s still a good answer for plenty of families. It just isn’t the only one now, or even the usual one.

A lot of homeowners are sitting on a first mortgage they’d rather not touch. Companies who track this across most of the country, call it the lock-in effect. Earlier this year more than half of the equity homeowners took out came through second loans instead of refinancing, the strongest showing for second loans in almost twenty years. If you bought or refinanced between 2020 and 2022, there’s a fair chance I’m describing you.

Neither route wins by default. A refinance can be the cleaner move, especially if you’re not attached to your current mortgage or you’d rather keep everything in one place. What’s different now is that a second loan sits right beside it as a real choice, where a few years ago I’d have pointed almost everyone straight at refinancing. That’s what people get wrong on their own, and it’s what we can usually settle in one conversation.

Size the line for the project you’ll actually have

A home equity line of credit is a limit, not a lump sum. That makes choosing the size of the limit a separate decision from choosing how much to spend, and it’s the one I see homeowners size too small.

Set the limit against the project that runs over, not the one on the estimate. If there’s room in the line, week three costs you a phone call. If there isn’t, you’re applying for something in the middle of a build, and that’s where the expensive choices get made.

Ask me what affects the size of a line, and what fees come with keeping one open. Those vary, and they’re the part to understand before you settle on a number.

Using equity is simpler than people expect

A lot of homeowners put off calling a lender about their equity because they picture buying a house all over again, months of it, boxes of paper. Borrowing against a home you already own really isn’t that.

You already own the home. You already have the mortgage. The questions are about a property you know and a loan you’ve been paying on, and much of what I’ll ask for is paperwork already sitting in a drawer. That equity has been building the whole time your family has lived there, and putting a little of it back into the house is one of the most ordinary things a homeowner does with it.

Before you sign: a short checklist

Run through these questions before you sign a contractor’s contract, not after. Take them to whoever you’re talking to about money.

  • ☐  Write down your number, then add 20%. Plan for the version of this project that runs over, because that’s usually the one you get.
  • ☐  Decide now where the extra would come from. Make that second decision with time to think, instead of in week three.
  • ☐  Check what’s left in savings when the work is done. If the answer is “not much,” that’s an argument for using equity rather than emptying the account.
  • ☐  Ask whether this is one job or several. Staged work and a single defined job suit different options.
  • ☐  If a contractor offers financing, find out who the lender actually is. Get the total cost over the full life of it in writing first.
  • ☐  Ask whether your current mortgage is one you’d want to keep. For a lot of people it is, and that rules some options in and others out.
  • ☐  Ask what’s backing each option. Nothing backs a credit card or a personal loan, so they charge the most interest. Your home backs a refinance or a second loan, so they charge a lot less.
  • ☐  Ask what happens if the project stalls. There are answers for a delayed crew, a job that changes halfway through, and money released in stages. Get those answers before you need them.

Questions I get asked

Should I just put it on a credit card and pay it off fast? If fast really means a couple of months and you know the money’s there to do it, that can work. The trouble is that nearly everyone intends exactly that, and the balance tends to outlive the project by years. At credit card rates, that’s the most expensive version of this project there is.

Is it smarter to wait until I’ve saved the whole amount? It depends what the work is doing. A cosmetic refresh can wait, but anything holding back damage can’t, and waiting on that one usually costs more than using equity would have.

There’s also a cost to waiting that never shows up on paper. While you save, the project competes with everything else your savings is there for, prices don’t stand still, and if something gives out in the meantime it tends to land on a high-interest credit card anyway.

Can I use more than one of these? Yes, and most people do. Savings for the bulk of it, something else for the rest. The trouble starts when a high-interest credit card becomes the main source without anyone actually deciding it should.

Does it need to add value to be worth doing? No. Resale value is one way to judge a project, not the only one. Some of the best projects I’ve helped with were about living in the house rather than selling it. Just be clear with yourself about which one you’re doing.

Where to start

If you’re weighing something this fall, start with a conversation about which of these five fits your situation. It’s usually a short call, and it’s a good deal easier than most people expect. That’s the whole reason I put this together.

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Your Safety Net: Building an Emergency Fund

Your Safety Net: Building an Emergency Fund 4592 3064 Your Loan Officer for Life

Today, we’re talking about something that I believe is a cornerstone of financial stability—an Emergency Fund.

Now, I know we all like to think that we’re prepared for whatever life throws our way. But when the unexpected strikes—a busted water heater, an out-of-the-blue medical bill, or an unexpected layoff—that’s when an emergency fund goes from being a “good-to-have” to a “thank-goodness-we-have-it.”

Having an emergency fund gives you peace of mind knowing that you’re ready to tackle any financial surprises that come your way. Remember, every little bit counts! Start small, be consistent, and before you know it, you’ll have a robust safety net.

The Why Behind the Emergency Fund

Having an emergency fund is like wearing a seatbelt. You don’t plan to have an accident, but if it happens, you’ll be glad it’s there. When unexpected expenses pop up, having an emergency fund allows you to cover them without going into debt. This way, instead of panicking, you can focus on solving the problem.

So, How Much is Enough?

A good rule of thumb is to aim for three to six months’ worth of living expenses. The specifics will depend on your situation. If you’re a two-income household, or if your job is pretty stable, three months might do the trick. But if you’re a one-income family, or if your income varies, you’ll want to shoot for a bigger safety net—think six months or more.

Building Your Emergency Fund, Brick by Brick

Now, I know this might seem like a tall order. But like any big task, it’s manageable if you break it down. Here are my top tips:

Start Small: Don’t get overwhelmed by the total sum. Start with a mini-goal—say, $500—and build from there.

Make It a Habit: The best way to grow your fund is to contribute regularly. Find a rhythm that works for you—weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly—and stick to it.

Set It and Forget It: One of the best tricks in the book is automating your savings. Set up automatic transfers to your emergency fund, and watch it grow.

Save the Extra: Got a bonus or a tax refund? Consider tossing some of it into your emergency fund.

Trim the Fat: Take a look at your budget and see where you can cut back. The savings can be funneled straight into your fund.

Where to Stash Your Cash

Your emergency fund should be easily accessible but not too accessible. A high-yield savings account is a great option. It keeps your money out of sight but within easy reach when you need it and earns you a bit of interest to boot.

Adding an Emergency Fund to Your Financial Plan

Weaving your emergency fund right into your budget plan is a game-changer. Think of it as planting a little seedling in your financial garden every month. Speaking of growth and your monthly budget, a cash-out refinance is a great way to leverage the equity you have in your home to pay off high-interest debts with big monthly payments. Getting those big bills off your budget is a fast, smart way to cut monthly costs and create room for your money to grow. Before you decide how much equity to pluck from your cozy nest, consider how much you’d like in your emergency fund. It’s like picking apples from your tree: leave enough to ensure future growth.

So, next time you sit down to look over your budget, don’t just think bills and splurges. Sprinkle some love into that emergency fund. It’s your umbrella for those rainy days, and we all know they come!

As always, my team is here to help guide you through your financial journey. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need help navigating these waters. Together, we’ll make sure that when life throws those curveballs, you’re ready to catch them without breaking the bank.

Start building your financial safety net today!

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What Exactly Is a HELOC?

What Exactly Is a HELOC? 540 282 Jason Breeland

HELOC stands for a home equity line of credit.  It is sometimes called a Home Equity Loan.

Question #1:  How is Home Equity Defined

Equity in a property is the difference between its market value and what you owe on it.  For example, a homeowner who has a property worth $150,000 and has a mortgage balance of $120,000 has $30,000 of equity in the property. To access some of this equity for your own use, you could look into taking out a HELOC.

Question #2:  Is a HELOC a Mortgage

A HELOC is a mortgage, separate from the one you may already have. Generally, a HELOC is a second mortgage.  To get one, you would go through a similar process as you would for a traditional first mortgage. Income, assets, and credit are all considered.

Question #3:  What are Common Uses for A HELOC

Common uses for HELOC funds include home improvements and college tuition. Because it is a line of credit, as opposed to a fixed term, a HELOC works more like a credit card.  As with a credit card, you are able to purchase items and then pay down the balance over time. As you reduce that balance, that money becomes available to you to use again and again.  While they operate in a similar fashion, HELOCs offer two advantages over credit cards. The first is a lower interest rate. The second concerns taxes. Often, the interest paid on a HELOC is tax-deductible.  You should consult a tax accountant or advisor for further information regarding the tax deductibility of interest and charges on a HELOC loan.

Question #4:  How Is A HELOC Different Than a Home Equity Loan

The HELOC is a line of credit, which is different from a fixed term loan. The fixed term loan has a fixed payment over a set period of time.  With a HELOC, the interest rate can fluctuate, so the payment amount can also change. This means that your qualifying income must be high enough that you can make the payments when 100% of the loan balance has been drawn out and the payments are at their highest amount.

Interest rates are also typically higher on HELOCs than they are on fixed-rate mortgages. This is because, in the case of default, the first mortgage lender will get paid back first. This puts more risk on the HELOC lender.

Contact Us

When searching for a “Home Equity Loan”, contact Milend, Inc. Our team of home loan experts would love to work with you and help you with any questions you may have. So don’t wait, call our office today at 855-645-3631 to get started.

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